Generally for freediving, a low-volume mask is preferred. This is not necessary for pool work / training, but is important for any real depth, as it will require less air to equalize.
In addition to low volume, a mask that has high-compressibility is preferred. This means that as depth and pressures increase, the mask will compress / collapse onto itself (via the soft silicone or sometimes the plastic lens(es).
Lastly, a mask with an opaque / black silicone skirt is preferred to a clear one that lets additional light in and wreaks havoc with reflections.
Popular models:
Cressi Superocchio / Omer Abyss / Omer Bandit (same basic style – Omer has softer silicone - Bandit is a newer / lower-volume version):
These mask styles are 30+ yrs old, are built like tanks and still are amongst the best available for freediving / spearfishing. Low volume, but the 3:00 and 9:00 peripheral vision is not as good as some newer models. Still great for depth and line-diving. Fits most face sizes / types.
Technisub / Aqualung Micromask:
Very low volume, large lenses close to the eyes makes for great peripheral vision. The silicone skirt is not as compliant as others. Mask is great for UWH, UWR, spearfishing and pool work (as the top-profile is low which makes for great hydrodynamics – esp important with the speed from a monofin)
Note: IST makes a copy called the Seal M-99 that is approx 50-65% of the price.
Aquasphere Sphera:
Very light mask with large plastic lenses that have some curve to them. This leads to some visual distortion. This mask is low-volume and the compressibility makes it an ideal choice for depth-diving. The plastic lenses are prone to scratching and it’s fragility means that it will often develop leaks over time. Will work, but not ideally suited to narrow / small faces.
Sporasub Mystic:
Super compliant silicone and extremely low volume. This is the latest generation of freedive / spearo masks. Lenses are close to eyes which makes peripheral vision excellent. The soft silicone means it will compress well with depth. This is one of those masks that can be used for everything, as it does not have any weaknesses.
Omer Zero 3:
Also of the modern generation of masks. Similar size to the Sporasub Mystic. Low volume, but likely to compress less than the Sporasub. Less silicone means that it does not fit a wide variety of faces and suits a wide face without a prominent brow-ridge. Prominent top-edges of the eye-ports may mildly hinder hydrodynamics.
Beauchat Maxlux:
A single-lens mask with fairly low volume that has excellent visibility and fits medium and large faces well.
Sommap Flow – AKA the Vodka Mask:
Super light mask with very little in the way of a frame with a single lens. Water pressure deforms this mask and lens considerably making it great for depth, although vision invariably suffers as the lens bends around the nose-bridge - brutal visibility / ability to focus. Super-low leading edge makes it great for pool-work and hydrodynamics, in addition the it’s strengths in depth. Fits med to wide faces well with med or smaller noses.
Snorkels:
- Cressi America
- Mares Samurai
- CAN-AM LBS (Large Bore Snorkel)
Longfins:
- Cressi Gara LD 3000 - durable, comfortable footpocket that fits narrow feet well
- Immersion E-Green - durable and super visible fins that fit wide feet well.
- Mares Avanti Tre - good snorkeling fins that are available for smaller / women's feet
- Mares Avanti Quattro - durable and heavy super-powerful fins that are an in-between length. GREAT for UWH and UWR for those with strong legs.
You need to stay warm while partaking in apnea activities. In apnea, you move as little as possible, thus getting cold is quite easy. Once you get goosebumps or start to shiver, your apnea time is halved. Get out an get warm!
Pool use:
A shorty is useful just to stay warm – but has poor hydrodynamics.
Triathlon suit:
These are great because they are cheap(ish) and work great for pool training. I like one with a 5mm chest and 3 mm on the back of the legs, but sleeveless. This allows me to stay warm and still fit my large upper body. With normal proportions, a sleeved suit could work well also. With the added buoyancy, extra weight will be needed to establish neutral buoyancy and this should help in your push-offs in DNF swimming.
Speed-suit:
These are swim skins that are less than 1mm thin and offer little thermal protection or affect on buoyancy. These are fragile and best suited (pun intended) for advanced athletes for use during competitions and PB attempts.
Open-water:
For less than 20* water a 2-piece 5mm apnea / spearfishing suit with integrated good is preferred. Lycra on the outside is a more durable / all-purpose suit. Look for open cell neoprene on the inside. Lube (a mixture of water and hair conditioner) will be needed to slip into it.
A 5mm suit is the best all-purpose suit for Canadian waters. They can even be used in a pool (unless it is 27+*) for static and even mild dynamic training. Fast repeats in a 5mm suit will lead to overheating.
A 3mm suit is best for tropical / Caribbean waters and can also be used in the pool as well.
7mm is generally reserved for single-degree water / winter / ice diving.
Weight belt:
A rubber "Marsailles" style weight belt with traditional pin-and-hole buckle is recommended for freediving. The rubber belt will contract as you dive deeper and your wetsuit compresses. For depth, aim to be neutrally buoyant at -10m or -15m. This may be as little as 4 lbs for a 5mm suit.
Neck weight:
For pool work, a neck weight is important to be neutrally buoyant. These are not generally commercially available, but you can sometimes find 2 scuba ankle weights to clip together. Another option is 25mm webbing and a plastic buckle paired with .5lb lead "chicklets" available at many scuba / dive shops.
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